It's just a tiny slip of paper. Doesn't look like much, but I sat staring at it. An announcement went out over the loudspeaker, "Now boarding for Atlanta." We gathered our things and made our way to the seat. As our flight took off, I settled in for the 8 hours we would be in the air.

     I sat thinking about the trip, which is now over. It had been a whirlwind two weeks' vacation in Scotland. Not just any vacation though. This was a pilgrimage to my homeland of sorts. A once in a lifetime trip and over my birthday no less. I was both excited to go home after an exhausting on the go schedule, yet there was a sadness as I watched the lush green fields, and mountains shrink into the distance, knowing I likely will never set foot on the land of my ancestors again. Is this how they felt all those years ago, when they left this land for America? Excited yet sad at the same time. I had met so many people while here. Others who shared my name and were, in all likelihood, family -- Clansmen.

     I scrolled through the photos in my phone. Over one thousand of them. Our first day was in Edinburgh. It was already late in the day upon our arrival. We walked the Royal Mile dipping into various shops, here and there and snapping photos of the beautiful old architecture along the way. Hunger called and we decided to eat at MacKays on the Mile. We wanted to experience as much of Scotland as possible so, Scotch Egg and Haggis wrapped in Chicken. A good way to end our first, though short, day in Scotland.

     The next morning, we arose early and made the one mile walk to the train station which we would ride for the next leg of our journey to Inverness. This was the first opportunity to see the countryside. I snapped photos along the way in an effort to remember every detail. Passing by were old train stations with character. Newer ones with intricate Victorian details. Mountains rose up in the distance splashed in purple heather now in full bloom. The sides of the mountain were dotted with limestone rocks and the splash of sheep, up and down the sides. Sheep. The Scottish have had a love-hate relationship with sheep. Both dependent on them for clothing and food to antiquity, yet ultimately displaced by them in the 1800s. As we got nearer the countryside and away from the big city, rock cottages passed by. Lived in for ages, handed down from one generation to the next. Some had been updated and added onto. Others now sat abandoned, the thatch roofs long since gone. Not even the rafters left. Yet the rock, which had at one time been lovingly hand stacked, one rock at a time, now stood, as if a cairn, to attest to the hundreds of years of life and family. Of Clanship. Now gutted, but what remained standing, boldly holding its ground. Other bits scattered, tossed aside by the soldiers who raided and burned the cottages in the clearances. Like those of us scattered to every country of the world, packed on ships like sardines and shipped out of the country on various guise of charges to justify opening the lands for sheep. I could connect to both the beauty and the history. Joy and sadness at the same time.

     Upon arrival in Inverness, we picked up our rental car and toured some of the heart of Inverness, enjoyed some local cuisine and visited the local grocery to stock up on some travel snacks and goods. Early the next morning, we set off for Tongue, the heartland of my clan. The big city faded into the rear-view mirror as we got out into the rural open countryside. The two lanes turned into one lane paved cart trails. Passing of two cars was accomplished at "passing points". A bit of a nail biter as we learned the local customs. No longer tracks of homes, the city turned to large green fields surrounded by stacked rock walls, filled with sheep and cattle. The occasional farmhouse here and there. Many more abandoned cottages along the way, pleading for someone to offer tender loving care to renovate and move in. As we entered Mackay Country, a stone stood on the side of the road. Mackay Country, Fàilte, or Welcome in Gaelic. The stone Cairn is intricately carved with two swans sitting necks interlaced and surrounded by scrollwork. Excited to see the stone, we parked nearby and took photos to add the growing collection. We looked out over the land of my ancestors. Rolling hills and glens, bogs scattered within them. The cool 60 degree breeze carried the smell of heather and fresh countryside. I was home. The mountain peaks of Ben Hope and Ben Loyal stand in the distance with a backdrop of the bright blue sky. We drove through Tongue into Melness estate, some 11,000 acres of crofts, stopping to stroll through the nearby cemetery and read the many headstones. The stones carved into various shapes were scribed with messages of love and loss. We drove on up the road towards Durness and stopped at Moine House, and enjoyed a walk along the narrow paved path. On both sides, were scattered pools, the black peat bogs. A mixed field of bog plants, such as the sundew, shared the fields with the purple heather. An eagle circled lazily in the wind overhead.

     We drove on up the North Coast and took a short stop at Choraidh Croft Tearoom to sit at a picnic table looking out over Loch Eriboll framed by Ben Hope and enjoyed a delectable slice of Lemon-Elderflower Cake while we basked in the warmth of the sun. The cool moist summer breeze carried the smells of summer. As much as we hated to leave the serenity, we moved on, arriving to our destination of Durness to tour Smoo Cave. A large cavern carved by the flow of water over thousands of years corkscrewed through the underground pocket of limestone. We trekked down the many steps and over the bridge to the mouth of the cave which opens up about 130 feet wide and 49 feet high. Plants hung precariously anchored to the shear walls enjoying the humid, dimly lit environment. The sound of water could be heard as it trickled along the rocky floor and out of the cave entrance. Heading back out of the cave, we stood at the juncture where the fresh inland water flowed from the cave into the North Sea, enjoying the sounds of the rhythmic lapping waves along the rock covered cliffs and narrow strip of shoreline. I could have stood there all day enjoying the sounds of the ocean, but we were on a time table today and had to get to Bettyhill for the Clan Meet and Greet. We arrived at the party and had the opportunity to meet and mingle among members of our clan. I met one of the Clan Seanchaidh but only had the opportunity for a short conversation about genealogy. There were a lot of people there and he had obligations. I then had the opportunity to meet the Clan Chief Aeneas and his beautiful wife, Mia. I presented them with a Clan Coin I had struck and my husband presented them with a custom crafted Oklahoma Black Jack wooden pen he had turned. Exhausted from the busy day, we made our way to Tongue Hotel for a well-deserved nights rest.

     The next morning we arose and made our way to Strathnaver Museum for the Inauguration Ceremony of the new Mackay Clan Chief. The morning began with the slow drizzling rain, as if the heavens were grieving the loss of the previous Chief. As the hour approached for the Inauguration Ceremony, the sun came out to shine a ray of hope on the new Clan Chief and the Clan. The bagpipes led the procession of clansmen, neighboring chiefs and Her Majesty The Queen's Lieutenant to the Farr Stone where the ceremony was held. The Reverend Mary Stobo, Minister of Kincardine opened the ceremony with a prayer and blessing over the new chief. The chief's cousin, Charlotte, read a poem written just for the ceremony. The Seanaichaidh, Chris Mackie, then came forward to present the new clan chief. The crowd chanted "God bless our chief and us for his cause!"

     Chris continued, "Forasmuch as our late Chief, Sir Hugh William Mackay, the 14th Lord Reay, left to us a lawful successor; we, the Clan Mackay, together with the clan societies of Scotland, Germany, America, Canada and others, do this day acclaim Aeneas Simon Mackay, the 15th Lord Reay, our only lawful and rightful chief, to whom we do acknowledge all due affection and loyalty. And as our chief is bound by the laws and customs of our people, it is therefore declared that he shall be here today inaugurated as our Chief and as a loving father to his clan."

     Lord Lieutenant of Sutherland, as a representative of the Queen, read aloud the letter of His Majesty King Charles I, which raised our Chief, Sir Donald Mackay and heirs to the Peerage of Scotland followed by the reading of the letters of Lord Lyon, King of Arms, granting unto the grandfather of our Chief, the ensigns armorial of the House of Mackay. Lord Inchcape escorted the new Chief to his chair set before the Farr Stone, flanked by Lord Inchcape to the left and Lord MacDonald to the right. Lord Inchcape presented the dirk to the chief, "Receive this chiefly dirk, delivered to you by the hands of your clansmen. With a strong hand protect us, your clan; help our land and defend her; restore that of the Duthaich Mhic Aoidh that has gone to decay; and maintain that which is restored." The chief proclaimed, "Seanaichaidh, I claim my dirk!" He was then presented with the staff by the Seanaichaidh, "As Your Lordship's Seanaichaidh, it is my privilege to place the lordly staff of our clan into the hands of the Mackay. It is the ensign of chiefly power and justice. May you exercise authority with wisdom, and direct your counsels with grace." Chris then turned, pulled his Sgian Dubh and shouted, "God bless the Chief and the Clan!". The clansmen assembled at the inauguration, holding their Sgian Dubhs high, chanted a repeat several times.

     The recitation of the lineage was made by the Seanaichaidh. Upon completion, Kenneth Mackay, the Deacon of the Church of Scotland ask the new chief, "My Chief, do you promise to be a loving father to the Clan of Mackay; to be loyal and true to your clan; and to lead us according to the laws and customs of the Duthaich Mhic Aoidh?" He proclaimed, laying his hand on the Farr Stone, "I do, God help me." The chief's piper then played Bratach Bhan Chlann Aoidh. The Seanaichaidh made a call to those present to swear fealty to the new chief. With the music in the background, clansmen stepped forward in an orderly fashion and knelt before the new chief, "So mote God help me as I shall support thee." The Seanaichaidh read aloud a poem called The Bulrush. At its completion, the clan then pulled their sgian dubhs and dirks and cried three times, "Làimh Làidir!" The proceedings now complete, the afternoon was spent celebrating on the lawn with dancing, some games, food and booths of goods available for sale. We enjoyed a walk through the Strathnaver Museum and through the church yard among our ancestors. We joined the rest of the clan at Strathy Village Hall to eat, dance and celebrate the night away.

     The next morning was Sunday. We joined the clan at the church to enjoy a sermon by the Revarand Stobo. After which, we met the clan at Tongue House to tour the historical gardens and home seat of our ancestors. We stopped to admire the stone carved with the clan crest which had been concreted into the wall of the structure during its construction. We ambled through the lavish gardens and admired the collection. We stopped at the hand cut sun dial, installed so many years ago. When the tour was over, we hiked up the steep mile long path to Varrich Castle (Caisteal Bharraich) and look out over the horizon. A birds eye view from the summit over the mosaic palette of the countryside. The dark blues of the North Sea tides crept inland over the Kyle of Tongue to the North. To the south, the green mountains of Ben Loyal and Ben Hope rise up sharply. To the east, Melness estate on the opposite side of the Kyle dappled with purple heather and the west, the sprawling crofts of Tongue, green fields filled with the splash of sheep ambling about. This was another moment of serenity looking out over the country of my ancestors and just trying to take it all in. It had been three days of celebration that had now come to an end. It was time for us to make our way back towards Inverness.

     On Monday, we headed along North Coast 500, stopping at Thurso the walk along the sandy beach. I kicked off my shoes, rolled up my pants and waded out into the surf of the North Sea. I picked up a stone along the shoreline worn smooth from the tumbling in the surf and a tiny vial of sand. We stopped at John O'Groats to snap a picture at the sign, ate lunch and did a little shopping for some treasures to bring home. We traveled on to Girnigo Castle. We walked through the ruins of the castle that once hosted our Clan Laird, Huistean Dubh Mackay after the death of his father when he was but a small lad. If only the walls of the ruined castle to tell the stories of our ancestors. The clouds had decided it was time to offer up some classic Scottish weather and began to drizzle. It was time to head on to Wick for food and rest for the night. The following morning, we traveled along the North Coast 500 from Wick to Dornoch. We stopped at the ancient round house of Cairn Liath, then on to Dunrobin Castle for a tour of the castle and gardens. We rested the night at Dornoch Castle and strolled the local church yard appreciating the headstones. Cairns erected as a tribute to each of our ancestors.

     We spent the next two days along the shores of Loch Ness. We stayed at Drumnadrochit Hotel where a Mackay was the first to sight ole Nessie swimming in the Loch. We took a day to do a little fishing and searching for Nessie ourselves, and took a few hours to tour the ruins of Urquhart Castle before heading back to Inverness. We enjoyed a day of touring Inverness with the Highland Historian, Andrew MacKenzie, visiting Cawdor Castle, historic Fort George and Culloden. I'll admit experiencing the battle of Culloden brought tears to my eyes to feel the experience of the slaughter on our ancestors. This brought a close to our Highland travels. It was time to head back to Edinburgh and one step closer to home.

     We hopped the train back to Edinburgh the next morning and spent the next few days enjoying the International Festival in Edinburgh. We strolled the streets filled with performers from all over the world, and over one hundred booths of crafters. We toured Holyrood House and Edinburgh Castle, both beautiful structures and a testament to the creativeness of the Scottish people. This brought our trip to Scotland to a close.

     I now sit, flipping through the photos. The trip may be over, but I brought home over a thousand pictures, an experience of a lifetime and new connection to the lands of my ancestors. I may have to frame this tiny slip of paper - this plane ticket to Scotland. People will stop and ask, why did you frame that tiny slip of paper? It doesn't look like much. I will smile and say, let me tell you what the slip of paper represents. An announcement went out over the loudspeaker, "Now deboarding at Atlanta." We gathered our things and made our way off the plane. Yes, the trip may be over, but the experience will last a lifetime.

Scotland August 15 - 29, 2023 Photos by Bo Wilson

Cheryl's Scotland August 19 - 28, 2023 Photos by Cheryl McKay-Wilson